Just how clean and green are ‘organic’ skincare products?  Helen Garston looks claims of ‘greenwashing’ in the beauty industy.

Your skin is the largest organ on your body and it makes sense that you wouldn’t want to put nasty things onto it, so of course, if there’s a choice between an organic product and a non-organic one, chances are you’re going to reach for the one you think is better for you. But are you getting what you’re paying for?

In many cases the answer is ‘no’, according to the Soil Association which has come out once more to name and shame companies it accuses of ‘greenwashing’ consumers.

It claims many companies are using the term ‘organic’ on their labelling when the products are not certified as organic or contain ingredients that would not be permitted in organic products. It’s a practice it says is misleading consumers and it’s outed eight brands and 13 products from Boots, Dr Organic and Faith in Nature, The Organic Pharmacy, Korres, Aloe Pura, and COOLA as the top offenders.

Isn’t this regulated?

No. Unlike the organic food industry where producers must adhere to strict EU regulations, there are no legal standards for the use of the terms organic or natural on beauty products. The result is that any brand or beauty product can call itself ‘natural’ or ‘organic’ even if it contains virtually no organic or natural ingredients.

And it’s easy to see why it’s tempting to put an ‘organic’ sticker on the label of a product – these products sell. The organic skincare market was worth £61.2 million last year alone, up 13 per cent from the previous 12 months.

What are they saying?

Let’s take one of the Soil Association’s examples, the Boots product – ‘Beautiful hair 19 moisturise & nourish shampoo with added organic argan oil’.

It was found to have a prominent organic label which the Soil Association says implies the whole product is organic even though it only referred to one ingredient, the argan oil. And in fact, only a tiny amount of organic argan oil was actually included in the product.

The investigation also found that this hair product contained five ingredients from the Soil Association’s ‘Terrible Ten’ list – ingredients the association warns consumers to avoid (see below).

The Soil Association spokesman Tommy Winchester says: “While it is obviously a good thing for a manufacturer to be using even one organic ingredient, we do not think it is right for companies to highlight that particular organic ingredient on the front of the package when only a very small amount is actually present in the product.”

And the association’s research shows consumers agree. It found that 76 per cent of consumers felt misled by some labelling on beauty products, that 72 per cent said they would lose trust in a beauty brand that made misleading claims about being organic. It also found that 69 per cent of people thought misleading labelling should be against the law.

Responding to the allegations a spokesperson for Boots told the Huffington Post that the company wants “to make sure that we offer our customers a wide range of products with clear labelling to help them choose the right product for their needs.

“We carefully consider the ingredients we use in our products and both our formulations and labelling comply with European Cosmetics Regulations.”

Is it unrealistic to think products are 100% organic?

While the Soil Association has its list of things to avoid, there is often a very good reason for chemicals to be added to products: without them they go off and pose health risks.

Consultant dermatologist Dr Emma Wedgeworth says: ‘Water-based skin care products definitely do need to contain some form of preservative or they can be susceptible to bacterial and fungal colonisation.

“Often preservatives are labelled in a way that makes them less obvious, but I would be very careful about using a water based product which contains no preservative at all,” she says.

And spoilage happens for a variety of reasons, with big brands falling victim. Last year, 15,000 200ml tubes of Liz Earle’s Naturally Active Cleanse and Polish Hot Cloth Cleanser were recalled from the online range after tests found they contained the bacteria Enterobacter gergoviae, a bacterium that’s associated with pneumonia and urinary tract infections.

The warning came from the European Commission’s Rapid Alert system which is designed to allow European countries to exchange information about products posing a risk to the health and safety of consumers.

Realism in purchasing

What it boils down to in the end is that, no matter the label, it’s highly unlikely that the product you’re buying is 100% natural or organic – and, as we’ve seen, there are good reasons for that.

The next question is, which ingredients are alongside the ‘organic’ ingredient and are you happy using them?

If you are concerned then the labels you should look for are those which certify the organic compontent and, like the Soil Association, look at what else it’s combine with.

Certifying labels include:

• COSMOS:  A group of European certification bodies have collaborated to develop the Cosmetics Organic Standard.
• The Soil Association: This is a leading UK food, farming and cosmetics charity and also an organic certification body.
• Natrue (True Friends of Natural and Organic Cosmetics) or Ecocert Greenlife: both certification bodies which adhere to strict standards.

The Soil Associations list

Beauty Products with the worst score out of 25:

1. Boots – Beautiful Hair Moisturise & Nourish Shampoo With Added Organic Argan Oil – (19/25)

What’s allegedly misleading?

The organic statement stands out on the front of the bottle but it only refers to one ingredient, the argan oil. Only a tiny amount of organic argan oil is actually included in the product. The product also contains five ingredients from the Terrible Ten and contains one additional ingredient that would not be permitted in a certified organic product.

Terrible Ten Ingredients:

• PEG-40
• PEG-200
• Polyquaternium-10
• PEG-7
• Polyquaternium-7

+ 1 ingredient not permitted in a certified organic product.

(Boots’ response to the allegations is in the text above)

2. COOLA – Makeup setting spray Green Tea & Aloe – (14/25)

What’s allegedly misleading?

This product says ORGANIC SUNCARE prominently on the front.

It also contains three ingredients from the Terrible Ten and four additional ingredients which would not be permitted in a certified organic product.

Terrible Ten Ingredients:

• ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate)
• homosalate
• ethylhexyl salicylate (octisalate)

+ 4 ingredients not permitted in a certified organic product.

Harley Street Emporium has contacted Coola for a comment.

3. Aloe Pura – Organic Aloe Vera After Sun Lotion – (14/25)

What’s allegedly misleading?

The label states ORGANIC in large letters which suggests it applies to the whole product, not just the aloe vera, which is the main ingredient.

This product includes one ingredient from the Terrible Ten and five additional ingredients which would not be permitted in a certified organic product.

Terrible Ten Ingredients:

• Retinyl palmitate

+ 5 ingredients not permitted in a certified organic product.

Harley Street Emporium has contacted Aloe Pura’s UK distributor for a comment.

4. Rituals – Heavenly Hammam Organic Argan Oil And Eucalyptus Revitalising Bath Oil – (14/25)

What’s allegedly misleading?  

The label states Organic Argan & Eucalyptus but these are not major ingredients.

This product contains two ingredients from the Terrible Ten and six additional ingredients that would not be permitted in a certified organic product.

Terrible Ten Ingredients:

• ci 26100 (red 17)
• ethylhexyl salicylate

+ 6 ingredients not permitted in a certified organic product.

An excerpt of what Rituals said in response to the Huffington Post:

“We have listed ‘organic Argan oil’, which is indeed from a certified organic source and ‘eucalyptus’, which is eucalyptus oil.

“It is by no means our intention to suggest that the product is an organic product. It is however very important to us to highlight that the Argan oil is added due to its powerful nourishing attributes.

“As the product is not claimed as being a certified organic product, not all ingredients used will meet the standards of organic cosmetics.

“The ingredients ethylhexyl salicylate, an UV stabiliser, and CI 26100, a colourant, may not be suitable for organic cosmetics, but are used in the formulation for their specific properties.

“According to the strict cosmetic regulations these ingredients are safe for use in cosmetic products.

“We agree that overall certification standards in the cosmetic industry need to be standardised to achieve consumer clarity, clarity in communication and clarity in production.”

5. COOLA – Pina Colada Sunscreen Spray – (13/25)

What’s allegedly misleading?

This product makes two organic claims on the front of the packaging: ORGANIC SUNCARE in a silver band and 70%+ organic ingredients.

It contains three ingredients from the Terrible Ten and two additional ingredients which would not be permitted in a certified organic product.

Terrible Ten Ingredients:

ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate)

ethylhexyl salicylate (octisalate)

octocrylene

+ 2 ingredients not permitted in a certified organic product.

6. Korres – Basil Lemon Shower Gel With Organic Althea Extract (11/25)

What’s allegedly misleading?

The label states ‘with organic althea extract’ and ’89.2% natural content’.

This product contains two of the Terrible Ten ingredients and four additional ingredients that would not be permitted in a certified organic product.

Terrible Ten Ingredients:

• Imidazolidinyl urea
• Polyquaternium-7

+ 4 ingredients not permitted in a certified organic product.

 An excerpt of Korres response to the Huffington Post:

Lena Philippou Korres, co-founder and head of innovation at KORRES, said:

“We use the term ‘natural’ responsibly and we feel that those who choose KORRES, appreciate our genuine approach.

“Appearing on a list of brands that are misleading in terms of their natural profile, is misleading itself when the one who conducts the list does not go into depth; at KORRES we develop formulations based on the world’s strictest regulation on cosmetics safety and quality [EU Regulation], that clearly states the ingredients and responding concentrations allowed for cosmetic use.

“As with all the ingredients we select in order to develop safe, efficacious and natural products – in that order – we have researched extensively their safety, stability and efficacy profile.

“All KORRES products are developed based on natural organic ingredients, with safety and efficacy being top priorities. KORRES adheres to all legislation requirements, national and European, on cosmetics safety and quality.”

7. Aloe Pura – Organic Aloe Vera Gel – (11/25)

What’s allegedly misleading?

The label states ORGANIC in large letters which suggests it applies to the whole product, not just the aloe vera, which is the main ingredient.

This product does not include ingredients from the Terrible Ten but contains four ingredients which would not be permitted in a certified organic product.

8. Korres – Fig Shower Gel With Organic – (10/25)

What’s allegedly misleading?

The label states ‘with organic althea extract’ and ‘90.4% natural content’.

This product contains two of the Terrible Ten ingredients and three additional ingredients that would not be permitted in a certified organic product.

Terrible Ten Ingredients:

• imidazolidinyl urea
• polyquaternium-7

+ 3 ingredients not permitted in a certified organic product.

9. Dr Organic – Organic Moroccan Argan Oil Shampoo – (10/25)

What’s allegedly misleading?

Organic appears prominently twice on the front of the packaging for this product.

This product does not include ingredients from the Terrible Ten but contains two ingredients which would not be permitted in a certified organic product.

Terrible Ten Ingredients:

None, but contains 2 which would not be permitted in a certified organic product.

An excerpt of what Dr Organic told the Huffington Post:

Michael Lightowlers, marketing director at Dr Organic said:

“Our commitment is that we strive to use organically grown ingredients in our products and where an organic ingredient cannot be used, we will always source sustainable natural alternatives approved by EcoCert Natural and Organic Cosmetics Standard.

“As a global brand, selling in over 50 countries worldwide, local cosmetic product certification is currently not a viable option to meet our needs for all markets.

“However, we are supportive of any campaign which supports greater transparency for consumers in what can be a confusing natural and organic beauty category.

10. Dr Organic – Organic Dead Sea Mineral Night Cream – (10/25)

What’s misleading?

Organic appears prominently twice on the front of the packaging but this product contains a large proportion of salt which cannot be certified organic.

This product does not include ingredients from the Terrible Ten but contains two ingredients which would not be permitted in a certified organic product.

An excerpt of what Dr Organic told the Huffington Post:

Michael Lightowlers, marketing director at Dr Organic said:

“We strive for transparency in our packaging with full ingredient and free from lists on all of our products. Our Organic Dead Sea Mineral Night Cream states on the packaging that this product contains a minimum of 70% organic ingredients to help inform the consumer’s purchasing choices.”

11. Faith in Nature – Raspberry & Cranberry Shower Gel & Bath Foam With Organic Fruits – (10/25)

What’s allegedly misleading?

The label states ‘With organic fruits’ but no further information is given about which fruit or how much.

Also includes a logo which shows ‘Certified Organic Ingredients’.

The brand name and the term ‘Natural Skincare’ suggest the entire product is natural, but it contains an artificial ingredient which is also one of the Terrible Ten.

Also contains one additional ingredient which would not be permitted in a certified organic product.

Terrible Ten Ingredients:

• Polysorbate 20

+ 1 ingredient which would not be permitted in a certified organic product.

An excerpt of what Faith in Nature told the Huffington Post:

“All of our Faith in Nature hair care, shower, bath, hand wash, skin care and Humphrey’s Corner Baby range has a minimum of 99.0% naturally derived ingredients.

“We make every effort to ensure that our packaging is clearly labelled. With this in mind, when we use an organic ingredient we know that our consumers would like to be aware of this so include this on our packaging. When we do this, we make it clear which ingredients are certified organic, allowing our consumers to make informed decisions when purchasing our products.

“The safety of our products alongside our ethics is our number one priority. We have had all of our products in the Faith in Nature ranges independently safety tested by an expert toxicologist in line with the European Cosmetics and Toiletries Regulation.”

12. Faith in Nature – Pomegranate & Rooibos Hand Wash With Organic Pomegranate – (9/25)

What’s allegedly misleading?

The label states ‘With Organic Pomegranate’ and includes a logo which shows ‘Certified Organic Ingredients’.

The brand name and the term ‘Natural Skincare’ could suggest the entire product is natural.

The product contains one of the Terrible Ten ingredients and one additional ingredient which would not be permitted in a certified organic product.

Terrible Ten Ingredients:

• Polysorbate 20

+1 ingredient which would not be permitted in a certified organic product

13. The Organic Pharmacy – Sweet Vanilla Dry Oil – (9/25)

What’s allegedly misleading?

‘The Organic Pharmacy’ brand name could potentially mislead consumers because it suggests that the product is organic.

This product does not include ingredients from the Terrible Ten but contains two ingredients which would not be permitted in a certified organic product.

Terrible Ten Ingredients:

None, but contains 1 which would not be permitted in a certified organic product

An excerpt of what The Organic Pharmacy told the Huffington Post:
“We pride ourselves on using high-grade organic and natural ingredients that deliver superior results. All of our products are clearly labelled with the percentage of organic or natural ingredients used to give consumers clarity when purchasing. Any products containing fewer than 95% organic ingredients will not be labelled as an organic product.

“Our Sweet Vanilla Dry Oil mentioned in the survey isn’t an organic product and therefore is not labelled as one. It is however, made with 99% natural ingredients, which is clearly stated on the back of the packaging.”

The Soil Association’s Terrible Ten Beauty Ingredients (Alphabetic)

• Ethyl hexylsalicylate (Octisalate)
• Homosalate
• Imidazolidinyl urea
• Octinoxate
• Octocrylene
• PEGs: PEG-7; PEG-40; PEG-200; PEG-12
• Polyquaternium 7
• Polysorbate 20
• Red 17 artificial colour 26100
• Retinyl palmitate

(https://www.soilassociation.org/our-campaigns/the-terrible-ten-beauty-ingredients/ )